September/October 2005 Volume 1, Issue 3
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©2005 Tsunami Fishing Systems

 
Tips, Tricks & New Products

In the course of researching this issue, we came upon these tips, tricks and new products. We can't say that we've tried them, or that they even work, but they sound reasonable, inspired or clever. Might be worth a try!

Fishing
This tip is from Pacific Coast Sportfishing's September 2005 issue. In Bob Hoose's article "Busting Bigeye ", he mentions a neat trick for using the boat to help fight big tuna - simply keep the boat in gear and moving forward slowly while fighting the fish. The constant pressure helps keep the fish's head up, and discourages it from sulking down deep.

Fly Fishing in Salt Waters had an interesting trick for attaching heavy leader butt sections to fly lines in their July/August 2005 issue.

In the article "When Dreams Come Blue", Capt. Gene Quigley describes his "Chinese Finger Trap Rig" connection, which he uses for bluefin tuna: 

  • Run 18" of 100 lb dacron over the tip of the fly line, and push it up the fly line.
  • Overlap 12" of the heavy mono butt section with the tip of the fly line
  • Use 15 lb mono to nail knot the end of the 80 lb mono to the fly line. Use a similar nail knot to attach the tip of the fly line to the 80 lb mono.
  • Coat the nail knots with Pliobond
  • Work the dacron back over the overlapped fly line / butt section, and whip down outside of the nail knots.
  • Coat the whip finishes with Aquaseal

This connection tightens down as tension is applied, similar to a "Chinese Finger Trap" toy.

Looking for a billfish teaser rod ? There was a thread recently on Dan Blanton's bulletin board that suggested using the specialized Sabiki bait-catching rods for a teaser rod.

These rods are 7 - 8 feet long, pretty stiff, and have no external guides (the line runs thru the center of the blank). This leaves a smooth surface on the rod, so that if you accidentally toss a loop of line over the rod blank while working the teaser, there are no guides to catch the line.

Superbraids (like PowerPro or Bionic Braid) are becoming increasingly popular offshore. But superbraids are also notorious for poor knot strength. For example, in order to achieve 100 percent knot strength in a superbraid, a Bimini Twist must use 70 - 100 twists, versus the 20 - 30 required for nylon monofilament.

Since a good double line is the starting point for most offshore rigs, a simple way to make a 100 percent double line in a superbraid is worthy of note. Max Garth's coaxial splice falls into this category. To make the splice in 50 lb superbraid:

  • Take a short ( 4 - 8 inches) section of 20 lb braided monofilament, and thread the superbraid up thru the center. To do this, you can use a folded-over section of #3 or #5 wire or a bait rigging needle as a threading tool.
  • Once you have the superbraid threaded through the braided mono, simply use the same threading tool to splice the braided mono / superbraid back into the braided mono. Only a couple of inches of embedded tag end are required.
  • Pull tight, and trim the braided mono back to within an inch of the embedded tag end of the spliced line. Put a drop of Loctite 406 on the end of the braided mono to lock it to the superbraid.

Boating
This is probably a sign of some sort of sickness, but we get excited about things like cool new types of tapes and sealants. One of the more interesting products we've seen lately are the fusible silicone tapes such as Tommy Tape®. These tapes have little to no adhesive on them, but they stick to themselves, and over time fuse together into one piece. They retain their flexibility even over time and in relatively cold weather, and can be cut off with no residue. A very useful aid for protecting wiring and bundling cables.

One of the more common items to fail on a boat is the bait tank pump. You should carry a spare, but how will you remove the old pump, and wire in the new one? In TB2 we were very concerned about the wiring getting wet, since everything is below the waterline in the bilge. But we couldn't find a good waterproof connector.

We decided to make use of some extra watertight fuse holders we had. Check the picture to the left. The fuse holder is opened, and each lead from the bait pump is fed through one half of the fuse holder, and the fuse sockets attached.

A similar process is done on the battery leads, but the halves of the fuse holder are reversed. This allows us to connect the two systems using the watertight fuse holders to protect the connection. Fuses are inserted prior to connecting the fuse holders to establish electrical continuity. With this system, as long as you wire the pump leads correctly at home, it is impossible to reverse the polarity in the field.

Ever have trouble getting the cap off your fuel filler? Check out the Key Wiz It's an adjustable fuel cap key (1 1/8 - 1 7/8") that accepts a 3/8" rachet extension in the top. That ought to get you enough leverage! The unit floats as well (without the rachet, natch).