|
Small Boat
Offshore Safety (Part 2)
In our last issue, we covered some initial points about offshore safety in
small boats. Part 2 covers more critical topics.
Remember, this article is NOT a general safety article. It
discusses issues we found important or unique to small boats offshore, and
how we made the decisions for Toy Boat 2. For additional background
reading, check out some of the articles mentioned in our
sidebar article.
If you have any additions or corrections, please feel free to
email us, or
post something on our discussion forums. .
Fish Safely
|
First Aid
| Seen/Heard/Found
|Abandon Ship!
|Getting Ready|
Conclusions
OK...the reason we're out on the water is to catch fish,
so let's start by talking about some fishing issues:
Keeping Fish Out of the
Boat / Getting Them Into the Boat
What's worse than not having a fish in the boat? It's having a
fish in the the boat when you don't want one. Sharks,
billfish, wahoo and various other fish have been known to join fishermen
uninvited in the cockpit, sometimes with tragic results..
A great example of what can happen was described in the October 2005 issue of
Marlin magazine. "Marlin Punch " by Charlie
Levine describes the Levine family's close encounter with
a black marlin at the Tropic Star Lodge in Panama. The fish went
airborne near the boat and wound up crashing into the cockpit, injuring the
angler. It was all caught on video; you can see the clip on the Marlin magazine website.
Skiffs are especially vulnerable to this problem, because they sit lower to
the water and may not have protective railings. Not only is the
crew in danger from the fish, it is entirely possible for the boat to capsize
from the encounter.
What can you do to avoid being hurt by the fish? Here's a summary
of recommendations we've gotten from various sources:
-
Practice Catch-and-Release. Bad things are less likely to
happen if you don't try to bring the fish into the boat.
-
Keep away from a green fish. Don't rush the fight . However, a
balance needs to be reached if you intend to release the fish, as an
exhausted fish may not survive.
-
Avoid positioning yourself in harms' way. Since fish can not
swim backwards very well, come from the side or behind if possible. If you're
in front of the fish, a flick of the fish's tail will naturally
drive the fish into you. Position the boat parallel or slightly behind the fish
-
Beware of other things that can hurt you - not
just teeth or a bill, but also rough skin, sharp gill rakers,
dangerous tails, or the sheer physical impact of a fish slamming into you.
.

Snooter photo courtesy Tailored Marine
-
Billfish have are an obvious threat on the end of their snouts. If you are
going to release a billfish, you need to control the bill. One
approach is to grab the bill with gloved hands, or to tie the bill off while
unhooking the fish. Another approach that requires less nerve is to use a
device called a "snooter" . As you can see from the
picture, a snooter has a small cable loop at one end. The free end of
the loop goes up through the handle, and out the other end.
When a billfish is brought next to the boat, the loop is slid over the bill,
and is moved as far down as possible, then drawn tight by pulling on the
end of the cable.
The cable loop does a good job of hanging on to the bill, and the stiff handle
allows the mate to keep the bill at a safe distance.
-
Along similar lines, release sticks allow the fisherman to
remove the hook without having to get too close to the fish. It is also easier
on the fish, as they don't have to be held out of the water to get the hook
out.
-
If you use a flying gaff, extreme care needs to be taken with the rope. Tying
off on a corner cleat could be a disaster if the fish still has a lot of fight
in it. There have been cases where the stern of a small boat was dragged
under by a fish surging away while attached to a flying gaff.
Staying unstuck
Skiffs are crowded. When moving around the boat, you need to take extra
care to avoid getting snagged, cut or impaled by your own gear.
There are obvious things, like protecting gaff points, but you also need
to be very conscious of hooks on rigged rods.
One "trick" that we have started doing is this: when placing rods in the
horizontal rod rack, we place the hooks on a guide frame, reel
crossbar or the hood of the reel seat on the side of the rod that will
be against the gunwhale. This uses the rod to naturally shield the
hook (remember the 10th Law
of Life Aboard a Skiff?). So for a spinning rod with the
tip forward, on the starboard side of the boat, the hooks would be on the right
side of the rod.
Also beware of cleats, levers or handles that can snag clothing at a
bad time, throwing you off-balance.
Sudden Impact
Here are two things to think about:
-
Large trolling lures can weigh half a pound or more, and are often
rigged to slide up the leader. If the fish shakes its head violently
close to the boat, the lure can be catapulted up the leader, possibly beaning
the mate or the angler.
-
If you fish outriggers with taglines, beware of the taglines snapping back
and hitting someone after the strike. A light release clip on the
tagline is less dangerous in this situation (Thanks to Capt. David
Brackmann of the Caliente for this piece of advice).
Revenge of the Anchovies
Who would think that the little guys in the bait tank could be the key to your
undoing?
-
Plugged scuppers - skiffs usually don't have
large scuppers. A fish like an anchovie or small sardine can get jammed in the
scupper, rendering it unusable. Take on some water, and you could be in for
trouble if you're down to 50% of your self-bailing capacity. Keep an eye on
this and clear the scuppers ASAP.
-
Slipping on bait on the deck - This, and blood
on the decks are why you should wash/hose down your decks regularily. With
low cockpit depth, and low or no railing, a slip can put you over the
side.
-
Leaky bait tanks - well, not caused by the anchovies
(unless they sabotage the plumbing), but since livewell plumbing often
goes under-deck, you may not see a problem until it is too late. Here is where
a bilge alarm would be a good thing.
Staying Aboard
We hate to keep dwelling on this point, but staying in the boat should
be a major priority.We've already talked a little bit about staying in the
boat when the boat is running, or while casting. Once you're hooked up,
what should you be watching out for?
-
Harness issues - If you use a stand-up harness, you need to
exercise extreme care, especially with heavy tackle. If you slip and get pulled
overboard, it's unlikely that you will be able to unclip and get out of the
harness, or find a way to break the line.
-
Several sources recommend carrying a release knife to make it
easier for you to quickly cut the line or harness straps. The
same thing applies to the person acting as mate.
-
Another option is to use a specialized harness designed to be attached to the
boat. Two commercially available tether-ready harnesses are the
"MateSaver®" and "AnglrSavr®", both from Gameface Gear.
-
Remember that even if you don't have a chair, you gain a lot of stability
by leaning against something like a leaning post, or livewell. On
larger boats you would normally lock your knees under a gunwhale combing, but
that may not be an option on your skiff.
|


AnglrSavr® harness
courtesy Gameface Gear
|
And lastly...
Don't back down on a fish! Trying to drive a skiff backwards
in rough seas is a recipe for disaster. Besides, you are not nearly
as mobile as when you are going forward.
|